第二天早晨雨住了,阴天多云,东方还出现了一丝鱼肚白,似乎预示着一个大晴天呢。只是欢呼跳跃还为时过早,毕竟人还在俄勒冈境内。开车过了波特兰(Portland),跨越了浩瀚的哥伦比亚江(Columbia River),就发现华盛顿州烟雨弥漫,阵雨天气,局部暴雨。高速公路大雨倾盆而下,大卡车驶过,激起千层雨雾,令人犹入云里雾里,开过了去503好公路出口,竟浑然不知。原本打算从圣海伦斯火山(Mount St. Helens),北美大陆最近一次爆发的火山南边绕一个大圈,顺便入山观景,然后取东北方向北上去走访润尼尔山国家公园(Mount Rainier National Park)的。
早晨8点离开奥林匹亚,很快就找到了101号高速公路的东干线,于11点钟左右到达天使港(Port Angeles),这个美丽的海湾城市伫立于狭长但是浩瀚的旺德福卡海峡(Strait of Juan De Fuca)之滨,奥林匹克半岛之顶端。广袤的太平洋从此地伸向内陆,把一片陆地切割得支离破碎,正因为如此,这里有很多令人刮目相看的景致,可惜一天的日程排得满满的,无暇驻留。
换路一次又一次,绕着大山,深谷,河流走,到了卡尔森。车过神明桥(Bridge of the Gods)时,已是下午6点多了。河谷沿岸有瀑布二十多座,因为是回访,没用几分钟就找到了地方。还是只能走访路边的瀑布,徒步爬山追寻是万万不能的,没有时间哪。就这样,在半个小时之内,我们还是看到了Elowah, Horsetail, Lower Oneonta和Mutlnomah几个路边瀑布,其中Mutlnomah最大,属所有瀑布之最。一路走来,7点45左右在波特兰找到旅馆。
In life we often encounter advices telling us to curb our greed. It is said that desire corrupts the purity of life. But it seems to me that reasonable desires are the driving forces of life. For example, after having lived in California for many years, it's only natural to desire a slightly wetter place for the summer. Here in California it doesn't rain for five long months from late Spring to mid-Autumn. We took some trips to Oregon but the summer scene there did not distinguish itself from that of California. So, we thought about a bit more up North, like the State of Washington.
Reflection Lake, Mount Rainier National Park
The plan to drive up to the Olympic National Park at the Olympic Peninsula just west of Seattle was on the table last summer. But the gas price under the Bush Administration went up over $4 per gallon. The trip had to be postponed until this summer.
The Great Northwest experienced some historic heat wave early in August. Seattle was scorched by triple digit heat. But due to different work schedules, we didn't catch any of the great sunshine and tremendous visibility. Our trip started out promising as we had brilliant sunshine in California and even Oregon. Only when we reached the destination of the first day, Salem the capital city of Oregon, it started to rain about 7 o'clock in the evening. The rain felt so soothingly at the beginning, for we hadn't seen any real rain for the past three months plus. The air was, indeed, moist and soothing to the skin. Everyone went to bed feeling blessed.
2. Missing Mountains
The next day greeted us with cloudy skies but no rain. As a matter of fact, there was a little breaking on the horizon as if a sunny day was to emerge. There was nothing to celebrate, however, for we were still in Oregon. By the time we drove past Portland and crossed the mighty Columbia River, the State of Washington was saturated with moisture. It was showery with pockets of heavy downpour. Some part was so stormy that the big rigs on the highway kicked up some fiery balls of water mist. It was hard to see where we were; as a result, we drove by the exit to connect from Highway 5 to Route 503 without any notice. The original plan was to loop around the south side of Mount St. Helens in order to have a glance of the most recent erupted volcano on the continental US. From there we could proceed on to the northeast side of Mount Rainier National Park.
Unfortunately, by the time we could see the sign that read "Mount St. Helens Visitor Center" we were looking at Route 504, a scenic bypass built just Mount St. Helens. This was a trap as this 50 mile drive had no outlet at the other end. In other words, we were looking at a hundred mile round trip. Anyway, missing connections and going extra miles was all part of life on the road.
Mount St. Helens was hidden in the clouds and rain. We could see most of the elements, like deep valleys, lush green hills, waterfalls, flowers, and burnt tree stumps and newly planted trees. Route 504 was excellent. well paved with wonderful viewpoints. In a good day, one should have a wonderful time stopping by and see the mountains around, erupted or not. But the mountain peak or the erupted crater was entirely absent, enshrouded in stubborn clouds and thick fog. It rained lightly but the white clouds simply wouldn't relent for the duration of our short visit.
Mount Rainier Model
We had no time to laugh or cry, for we must move on. A swift connection from 505 (a northwest slant from 504 towards Highway 5) led us to Route 12. The clock was fast ticking towards 3 pm. The rain stayed off and on along the way.
Again, the road condition was excellent. Soon Route 12 led us to Route 123. Five or six miles later we found the Ohanapecosh entrance to Mount Rainier National Park. The gate agent was very polite and apologized for such low visibility. The entrance was still at a fairly low altitude. In spite of all the clouds, one could still see the trees, the valleys and some part of the mountains. We found many folks taking pictures at Silver Falls right by the road. That was nice. The moisture and mild temperature provided some comfort; nothing was irritating, yet. A few minutes later, we were at Box Canyon where the water mixed with rock powders grinded off by glaciers roared down a canyon. The canyon was so deep and so narrow that one must stand right atop of the canyon (on a bridge) in order to see the rushing water at the bottom. Standing some 100 plus feet above, I still could feel the anger, the rush, and the power of the water in murky chocolate milk color. This was a well-established park. We took a half mile walk to cross a foot bridge just to be with the roaring water. At this point, the sky became dark and the trees were wet. Still, the roaring river made one feel the day would never sleep.
Parking Lot Fox
Paradise was our destination of the day. It was one of the most decorated point of the entire park. Along the way we stopped at the Reflection Lake by the road. It was said that on a good day one could see the reflection of the snow peak of the majestic Rainier in this beautiful body of green water with pine trees lined just under the white snow peak. Today the peak was missing; so, we could only see the lake and some trees and plenty of fog.
Tourists Looking at Narada Falls
At Paradise, the same theme repeated itself. It was said that this part of the park had extensive fields of gorgeous wildflowers. On a sunny day (ah, such a painful concept), one could see huge meadows of flowers extending into the tree lines, the snow covered peak would be just above the timber. It would have been fairy tale picture, a photographer's dream. But the rain had picked up at this higher elevation. We just toured the fabulous Henry M Jackson visitor's center and left. There wasn't much we could do anyway.
3. Life Is Still Beautiful
No doubt there was a little disappointment, for nobody wished to drive 1,000 miles to be stood up by mountains However, there was no sadness. All the time, I felt like a child in the arms of Mother Nature. I might not be able to see her beauty in her fabulous entirety but I could feel her wonderful presence of softness and elegance.
A Viewpoint along the way to Hurricane Ridge
We had to get out of the mountains and find a hotel for the night. On our way down, Narada Falls stopped us. On the almost empty parking lot, there was a fox sniffing the tables and gutters in search of food dropped by tourists. At the edge of the parking lot we saw this really energetic water fall dropping down into a deep gorge. It was hard to take a decent picture of the fall. So, we took a short walk into the gorge. The waterfall was gorgeous even in the steady rain. The mountains had many waterfalls but not all of them were by the road. With no time to wonder off the road, we still ran into about five waterfalls along the way.
A Deer Family
After many changes of routes, we arrived in Olympia around 7:45 in the evening and found a hotel. The sunset was beautiful, everything seemed nice and easy.
4. Hurricane Ridge
Maybe the reason we didn't feel it was such a tremendous loss to miss seeing the spectacular peaks of Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier was that our trip was to see Olympic National Park. The trip was such a stretch that we drove for two days and haven't reached the destination. As a matter of fact, Olympia was still a good three hours away from Hurricane Ridge, presumably the best portion of the park.
At Hurricane Ridge
We left Olympia around 8 in the morning and quickly found the east fork of Highway 101. And around 11 we arrived at Port Angeles, a port city on the shore of the narrow but gigantic Strait of Juan De Fuca that shaped the Olympic Peninsula. The Pacific Ocean reached deep into the land here to make this part of the world scattered. Because of that, there were so many beautiful places and marvelous scenes to behold. However, we could not linger, as we had our plate full for the day.
It was an 18 mile drive from downtown Port Angeles to the visitor's center on Hurricane Ridge. The road was marvelous. The rain had stopped. Faint sunshine tried to break through clouds that clung to the mountains and forests. It was such a tremendous thrill to be able to see snow covered peaks around Mount Olympus. Some of the permafrost or glaciers were clearly visible. The sun was breaking through now and then. We took a mile long hike along the ridge trail. A mommy deer lead two small deer were searching through grass and benches for lunch. People were happy to be in the arms of Mother Nature. We had our best moments of the trip there, though we only had a little over two hours there.
5. Ruby Beach
At the visitor's center, we mentioned to a trip adviser that we wished to see Hurricane Ridge and Hoh Rain Forest at the park. She said that the driving distance from the highway to the Hoh Rain Forest was a whopping 20 miles. The road was narrow, winding and mountainous thus a round trip would take more than one hour. Thus she suggested to try the Quinault Rain Forest with only 8 miles one way. Along the way we could stop by Ruby Beach.
I mumbled that we had nice beaches in Northern California, she said that the beaches here was more rugged. I had no idea. Ruby Beach was right there by the highway. Not only were there many people but also many large dead trees on the beach. The trees were washed down by flood water all the way from the mountains to the ocean. Then waves pushed them back onshore. Still there was nothing spectacular about Ruby Beach.
What was interesting was how lumber was harvested in the Great Northwest. Trees were planted and were given a few decades to mature. They they were clear-cut for new planting. Huge wooden boards were erected bearing the history of planting and harvesting.
6. Quinault Rain Forest
After snacking and breaking at Ruby Beach, the time had passed 3:30. We hurried up to catch some daylight for the Quinault Rain Forest. We arrived at the Ranger's Station around 5 pm. Nobody was there, except a few tourists. Following the information that seemed to suggest self-guided tours, we hiked into the darkness of the forest. The rain forest wasn't that spectacular as moss grew on tree branches and some hanging vines. The light wasn't so good so it was hard to see all the details. Still, it was amazing how much rain this part of the world received each year, for the altitude was rather high. This wasn't any tropical rain forest but cold water rain forest.
Hanging Moss in Rain Forest
We didn't our one mile plus loop trail in the woods and came through an old orchard farm to find our car. After that we had quite a few miles to drive through the towns of Hoequim and Arberdeen, two names I stared at a lot taking airplanes across the Pacific. When we were almost back to Olympia, we caught up the front of a fierce rainstorm on Highway 101. The downpour was so ferocious that the windshield swipe didn't offer any help. I had to slowed down from 70 miles per hour to around 45. It was such a bless that there weren't many cars and everyone drove slowly for about 15 minutes. We checked back into the same hotel in Olympia before 8 pm. Whew, that was quite a day.
Wild Flowers in Rain and Fog
It should be mentioned here that both Hoh and Quinault were ancient Indian tribes. Washington State seemed to pay a lot more respect to Native Americans than other states we had been to.
7. In Search of the Missing Peaks, again
This entire trip was to see the Olympic National Park. However, Mounts Rainier and St. Helens had aroused a lot of interests. On our way down south, we wanted to give the two mountains another shot. Plus, the forecast said that the weather might improve for Friday. Just might. As we were departing Olympia, there was first faint sunshine then some bright sunlight. Everything seemed promising thus far.
Myrtle Falls in the Rain (Mount Rainier)
It was not to be. The visibility was good all the way to the gate of the Park. It did not rain but the fog stubbornly hanged around the mountains. The fog was weeping big tears; heavy drizzles made the ground wet and slippery.
Creeks and Flowers in the Rain
We were determined to make the reverse loop intended two days ago. When it was dark and cloudy, we concentrated on the views in sight, in a cliché, "taking what life gives us." Christine Falls was gorgeous and Longmire offered a nice shop and a small museum. When we arrived at Paradise, there was no rain but the Jackson Visitor's Center was enshrouded in manacing fog. It was impossible to see the building from its own parking lot. With information about hiking and a simple trail map from the visitor's center, we went out to take a hike, in spite of the horrendous absence of the mountains. Ah, there were so many wild flowers, smiling, under heavy fog. There were waterfalls, creeks, even glaciers, aplenty. The heavy fog that became progressively thicker made us wet. At the end, we couldn't even see those who ran into us at the same narrow trail. Still it was a four mile hike, good to breathe in some fresh air with true moisture. The downhill drive in the fog was an hair-standing experience. All in all, it was nice to be so close to nature.
Wild Flowers in the Fog
From the map, the Windy Ridge observation point seemed rather closer to the main road. The actual distance was a whopping 16 miles of winding and narrow road. In spite of the forecast of a sunny afternoon, at 3 pm the sky was still cloudy and the volcano site was no show. The only improvement from two days ago was a lot more land came into sight. We climbed up a ridge and saw the giant crater, it was created by the run-offs of the volcanic eruption almost 30 years ago. There were many wild flowers, providing consolation to those fallen and burnt trees all over the hills. The scorched hillsides were still moaning. After all, we made our effort and the rest was in the hands of natural forces beyond our control.
Mount St. Helens
8. Back to Oregon
There was no time or reason to be upset, to curse or to feel sorry for ourselves. Everything, including ourselves, was part of nature. To add some brightness, we decided to revisit the Columbia River Gorge. We went through the gorge about 6 years ago but didn't see all the waterfalls dropping down from high cliffs. Also, we were already so far inland; therefore, a straight drop into the Columbia River Gorge area would land us right among the clusters of waterfalls. So, it made sense to come out to the coast along the river and under many waterfalls.
After many switches and winding around mountains, valleys, rivers, we reached Carson. By the time we crossed the Bridge of Gods, it was already quite a few minutes past 6 pm.
Horsetail Falls, Columbia River Gorge
The river gorge was narrow but long with over 20 waterfalls. Since this was the second time around, we managed to find those waterfalls within minutes. Our policy was to stop by those waterfalls by the road and avoid hiking up the narrow gorges for waterfalls off the road. We simply didn't have the time. Still in the frame of half an hour, we saw Elowah Falls, Horsetail Falls, Lower Oneonta Falls, the mother of all falls, the Multnomah Falls (for the second time). When we found a hotel in Portland, Oregon, the time was around 7:45.
9. Back to California
The return trip was nothing but a long drive. We hit the road shortly after 8 am and got home shortly before after 7 pm. So, it was an 11 hour affair.
Windy Ridge, Mount St. Helens
The mind was touched once again when the majestic peak of Mount Shasta with plenty of snow around the top came into view. California had so much sunshine that the mountains rarely went hiding.
Trip: August 11-15, 2009 Written: August 18-24, 2009